The Star Inn Harome UK review: Modern Yorkshire food

Hey folks!

Despite the close proximity of the Pipe and Glass, another great restaurant in Yorkshire is the Star Inn Harome. Indeed James Mackenzie, head chef of the Pipe and Glass, was once head chef at the Star, however despite the shared philosophy of local ingrediants the style of cooking is very different. Both James and owner/head chef at the Star, Andrew Pern, have done a great deal for Yorkshire food and it seems the two remain close friends judging by their own “two chefs ale” used to make a tasty bread at both restaurants.

The building itself could not be prettier and its location often allows you to see the chefs walk into the middle of the road to pick some dandelions you will likely be served later on. A thatched roof and dark wooden beams set the mood for what will be a very tasty Yorkshire experience.

The starter of charred local mackerel with lemon “pickle”, fennel sorbet, ash baked celeriac and nettle crisps was a great light and zingy plate of food. Delicate mackerel cooked well, slightly bitter celeriac countering the sharp cold fennel and a well judged lemon pickle to lift it all up. The nettles too added a touch of earthiness as well as a crispy texture. 

The second starter was a haslet of Harome reared “loose birds” chicken with pickled hedgehog mushrooms, dandelion leafs (told you they would appear!), Yorkshire relish and duck fat fried bread. I am not sure entirely what the preparation process of the haslet was, though perhaps a terrine of game birds offal, tasted nicely of wild birds and was seasoned well. My dad, who was joining me, did not particularly like the pickled mushrooms as they were rather tough (I had to dodge a couple that shot off the plate..not really but you get the picture) though the picking captured the flavor of the mushroom well enough. It was also the first time I had eaten dandelion and they taste slightly of spinach. Finally to spread all this on, duck fat fried bread…need I say more?

My main course of hay baked, milk fed squad, mead and honey’d parsnips was presented spectacularly in a lidded pot filled with juniper, heather and herbs and once opened wafted aromas of the smoking branches around the table, very enticing. The bird was gratefully already cut and had a gentle gaminess due to the fact it was such a young bird but was cooked nicely to pink to show off its full flavor. The mead sauce too added sweetness whilst raisins plumped up presumably in the mead also brought some acidity. Unfortunately another sweet element of the honey’d parsnips, whilst on their own good, made the dish too sweet for my taste as a main course.
 

Dad decided to be adventurous for his main and chose the plate of lamb. Rack, rump, choux farci, haggis, tongue, cheek and brain served with pickled red cabbage, carrot foam and pearl barley risotto. WE SHOULD ALL EAT BRAIN. Let me tell you cooked like this it was as soft and rich as any mousse you are likely to find and was coated in a crispy breadcrumb, wow. The rest of the meat was all cooked expertly well and I preferred this main to my own. The only poor element was the carrot foam which was lacking in carrot flavor.

Dessert was a dark chocolate and rosemary “pudding”, parsnip ice cream and gin poached gooseberries. Unfortunately as you can see the pudding had already broken preventing the excitement of cutting into it myself and oozing its sauce over the plate. Rosemary and chocolate…not quite there for me, it did add something but not positively in my opinion. The parsnip ice cream however was very memorable as well as the powder that dissolved on the tongue. I love tangy gooseberries so adding alcohol can only help.

Dads pudding of Caramelized blood orange and ginger rice pudding, marmalade doughnut and cardamom sugar was better again. Crispy blowtorched sugar skin and creamy ginger flavored rice pudding and a sweet orange flavor too worked very well whilst the doughnut was light and not at all greasy and furthered the aromatic concept nicely with the cardamom sugar. To me this was a much better dessert due to its simplicity.

We really enjoyed The Star and my dad sometimes goes once a week but in parts it felt that the more adventurous Andrew Pern lost sight of good flavors for trying new things in comparison to James Mackenzie and his simple but consistently good approach. The Star is definitely somewhere I would try again and was well above an average restaurant.

Rating: 8/10

Expect to pay: £45-55 per person for three courses

Would we go back: Yes

Any freebies: No

The Star Inn

Harome

North Yorkshire

YO62 5JE

Tel: 01439770397

www.thestaratharome.co.uk