The Pipe & Glass Inn UK review, second visit: A christmas treat.

As I said in my first review of the Pipe and Glass Inn (click here), the meals were some time ago, however I feel this will show the consistency of what I feel is a great restaurant.

This review covers the meal that we ate just before Christmas 2013.

Seeing the little inn as you drive along the small county road to its entrance you know that it will be a warm taste of an English country home and the decorations and roaring fire to keep the guests warm inside will only heighten that illusion. 

  

For the starters we opted for two dishes we thought fitting to the season, the ‘Yorkshire game terrine with pickled pear, semi dried grapes, mulled wine jelly and hazelnut flatbread’ along with ‘Creamed and truffled Shetland mussels with chestnuts, smoked bacon, chanterelles and crispy kale’ which was on the specials board.

Game terrine

The terrine had strong saltiness and fork tender texture that was cut with acidic pear and sweet golden grapes. The mulled wine jelly dots could have been larger in portion to enhance their spiced notes but there was just enough to finish the rest of the dish. The salad had a nice dressing on it and the hazelnut powder tied the whole dish together, overall a very good starter.

Creamed and truffled mussels with kale

The star of the meal though without a doubt was the mussels. Earthy fragrant and salty of the sea, the dish hit you in the face as it was served. Saltiness was strong but it only served to bring out the mussels flavour. Beyond even the truffles and other expensive ingredients though was the humble kale which had been deep fried and was outstanding.

Halibut with sea greens and shellfish stew

The mains on this occasion did disappoint and were perhaps the lowest standard we have had at the restaurant. The first main was fillet of wild halibut with salsify, wilted sea greens, shellfish stew and caper/raisin puree. Despite being well cooked fish this dish unfortunately tasted too fishy and of the sea, so a dish best forgotten.

Mushroom wellington

The second main was a mushroom wellington accompanied by (I think) chestnuts, celeriac and shaved truffle along with those crispy kale leaves again. Unfortunately this was also a poor dish and a fair portion was left. The reason was the truffle lacked enough fragrance and flavour for what I think I remember being a button mushroom filling in the wellington, though it may have been chestnut mushrooms. The truffle could not save the centre piece and we both questioned why you would choose such a relatively poor tasting mushroom for the main element. On top of that the pastry was too thick and soggy on the bottom. Again a dish we will forget about and luckily a standard we have never again received.

Luckily desserts were more than up to scratch. We chose the ‘liquorice panna cotta with mulled winter fruits and little doughnuts’ and ‘white chocolate and semi dried cranberry bread and butter pudding with spiced clementine’s and cardamon custard’ and if those don’t ring the Christmas bells I don’t know what will.

Liquorice pannacotta with mulled fruits

The first dessert had layers of the liquorice panna cotta with the mulled winter fruits on top that had me digging down to get every last creamy mouth hugging spoonful. The mulled fruits and the liquorice warmed the mouth and the soul after disappointing mains and brought back the Christmas cheer. The doughnuts too were a naughty little treat, very appropriate.

white chocolate bread and butter pudding with spiced clementine’s and cardamon custard

The other dessert of bread and butter pudding was superb and not soggy like a lot of others are. The zesty clementine’s and subtle cardamon custard flavour made me asking my dad for as many spoonfuls as I could cheekily get away with. We both fought over it so that about sums it up.

Despite the faulty middle, a few of the courses have lingered in our memories and after eating at many more top restaurants than I have, my dad still refers back to that starter of mussels. 

Rating: 8/10

Expect to pay: £35 per person for food

Would we go back: Yes

Any freebies: No

The Pipe and Glass Inn
West End, South Dalton,
Beverley, East Yorkshire,
HU17 7PN

Tel : 01430 810246

www.pipeandglass.co.uk